We had the distinct pleasure to interview award winning designer Ezra Satok-Wolman about their original and creative Brooch / Spilla design work. Ezra Satok-Wolman is an award-winning fashion designer, that makes our world a better place with their original brooch / spilla works.
Ezra Satok-Wolman ("ES") answered Design Interview ("DI") questions about their award-winning work Nautilus Carboniferous Brooch / Spilla. Interview questions prepared by Frank Scott.
ES : The brooch is inspired by the Golden Ratio and its prevalence throughout the natural world and virtually everything in it. The concept suggests that the Golden Ratio is a “Universal constant of design.”
ES : Having previously produced a similar design in gold, my objective with this project was to create something much more voluminous. Using the carbon fibre / Kevlar composite enabled me to work on a scale that is generally “off the charts” in jewellery, while maintaining an incredibly light weight.
ES : I plan on continuing to produce jewellery that pushes the boundaries of “traditional”, while keeping alive the traditions and work of the goldsmith.
ES : This design was something I imagined on the beach in The Netherlands in 2008. It wasn’t until 2010 that I produced the original version in 18k gold. Once I came to the idea to produce the design on a larger scale in carbon fibre, the design process went quite quickly.
ES : This was a personal project and something that I made because I felt the desire to make it. I have been fascinated by the Golden Ratio for years and have always thought of ways to represent its beauty and perfection through jewellery.
ES : I currently produce all of my jewellery by hand, in house. There are no current plans to work with any companies or sell our designs, but I won’t rule it out for the future.
ES : I am obsessed with the Nautilus shell form. I have always viewed the Golden Ratio as a “Universal constant of design” and loved the idea of combining that concept with the “flower of life pattern,” which I pierced into the front plate behind the Tahitian pearl.
ES : I can’t say that anyone influenced this design specifically, but I have certainly been influenced in many aspects of my career by Italian goldsmith Giovanni Corvaja.
ES : This design is intended for clients who are seeking a unique and special piece. This brooch is not intended for everyday wear, and is suited for special occasions.
ES : The first thing that comes to mind is that this is jewellery made from a carbon fibre / Kevlar composite, in conjunction with gold, palladium and a Tahitian pearl. I haven’t heard of this composite material ever being used before and I consider myself an expert when it comes to the trends in this field.
ES : “Nautilus Carboniferous” is a play on words and completely nonsensical. I was trying to create a name that sounded like a “unique species” and liked the idea of using the name of the geologic time period “Carboniferous” to reference the carbon fibre used in the piece.
ES : I used a combination of design tools for this project. Having a graphic design background, I often use Adobe Photoshop or Illustrator to produce layouts for pieces I need to cut out in metal or other materials. These programs are especially handy when you need numerous pieces or require different size pieces that are scaled up or down. The ability to reproduce shapes and scale them precisely was essential for this piece.
ES : The combination of precious metals with high-tech materials makes this piece of jewellery stand out from the rest.
ES : I worked alone on this project and didn’t collaborate with any companies or individuals. This is common for my practice, as all of my pieces are handmade in my atelier.
ES : New materials are produced and discovered daily. Being able to commercially acquire carbon fibre / Kevlar composites has enabled the development of a variety of new applications for the material.
ES : Working with carbon fibre or Kevlar can be difficult and challenging. The challenge becomes even greater when the two materials are used together in a composite. It is extremely strong and can be a challenge to cut. Multiple pieces of the material were required to build the Nautilus shell, and it was essential that each piece was a precise shape and size.
ES : I have been participating in design competitions for years. The A’ Awards presented the opportunity to have my work judged by an international panel of experts on art and design, rather than a group jewellery specialists. I felt that this was a truly non-biased methodology for a competition, and the fact that it is a global event presented a great challenge.
